Plants · Flowers
Peony planting zones
Peony (Paeonia) is a perennial. By the type table below, at least one type lives through winter in the ground in 3a–8b; outside those zones, none of the types on this page is rated. Below the types are the dates its year turns on: each zone’s median last spring freeze and first fall freeze, from NOAA records.
Published October 24, 2026 · Updated October 30, 2026 · Cite this page
The types
Which peony to grow
| Type | Hardy in the ground | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Garden peony Paeonia lactiflora and herbaceous hybrids (e.g. ‘Festiva Maxima’, ‘Sarah Bernhardt’) | 3a to 8b, then too little winter | Penn State rates peonies zones 3–8. NC State says they do best in 5–7 and languish where their chilling requirement is hard to meet. |
| Itoh (intersectional) peony Paeonia × Itoh hybrids (e.g. ‘Bartzella’) | 4a to 8b, then too little winter | A cross of a tree and a garden peony that dies to the ground each winter (NDSU, Penn State). NDSU rates ‘Bartzella’ zone 4. |
| Fernleaf peony Paeonia tenuifolia | 3a to 7b, then too little winter | Finely cut leaves and dark red flowers. NDSU grows it in North Dakota and says it is more sensitive to wet soils. |
| Tree peony Paeonia suffruticosa | 5a to 8a, then too little winter | A woody shrub whose buds sit on the stems all winter (Penn State). UGA does not recommend it except in northern Georgia. |
Zone ranges are a judgement: horticultural convention set beside what the sources below say, not a measurement. “Too little winter” means the type needs winter chill the warm zones do not give it. In the next table the freeze dates are measured, and the count of hardy types comes from these judged ranges.
Zone by zone
Where peony lives through winter, and when the freezes fall
Each date is the median across every NOAA station the zone’s ZIP codes cite, 1991–2020 normals. The middle half of those stations falls within the range shown beside it.
| Zone | Types hardy in the ground | Last spring freeze | First fall freeze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3a | 2 of 4 | only 10 stations with comparable freeze dates — too few to publish a date | |
| 3b | 2 of 4 | May 18 · middle half May 15 – May 25 | September 23 · middle half September 17 – September 26 |
| 4a | 3 of 4 | May 15 · middle half May 10 – May 21 | September 27 · middle half September 22 – September 30 |
| 4b | 3 of 4 | May 11 · middle half May 5 – May 23 | September 30 · middle half September 23 – October 3 |
| 5a | 4 of 4 | May 9 · middle half May 1 – May 20 | October 2 · middle half September 26 – October 7 |
| 5b | 4 of 4 | May 4 · middle half April 27 – May 15 | October 8 · middle half October 1 – October 14 |
| 6a | 4 of 4 | May 1 · middle half April 24 – May 9 | October 14 · middle half October 5 – October 20 |
| 6b | 4 of 4 | April 25 · middle half April 17 – May 3 | October 20 · middle half October 11 – October 24 |
| 7a | 4 of 4 | April 19 · middle half April 11 – April 27 | October 23 · middle half October 17 – October 28 |
| 7b | 4 of 4 | April 8 · middle half April 3 – April 16 | October 30 · middle half October 25 – November 3 |
| 8a | 3 of 4 | March 30 · middle half March 25 – April 5 | November 5 · middle half November 1 – November 10 |
| 8b | 2 of 4 | March 20 · middle half March 13 – March 29 | November 12 · middle half November 7 – November 18 |
| 9a | 0 of 4 | March 5 · middle half February 24 – March 15 | November 24 · middle half November 18 – December 2 |
| 9b | 0 of 4 | February 12 · middle half January 30 – February 25 | December 8 · middle half December 1 – December 17 |
| 10a | 0 of 4 | 107 of 190 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 10b | 0 of 4 | 70 of 79 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 11a | 0 of 4 | 34 of 34 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 11b | 0 of 4 | 12 of 12 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
“Types hardy in the ground” is a judgement, from the type table above. The freeze dates are measured.
A zone does not tell you your own dates. Inside a single zone the median last spring freeze still varies by 34 days from station to station, so the box below gives the dates of the NOAA station nearest your ZIP code.
Your ZIP code
Your ZIP, your answer
Enter your ZIP code to see your USDA zone, how many of the 4 types on this page live through that zone’s winter and when its freezes fall, read from the table on this page, and the freeze dates of the NOAA station nearest you.
Your answer appears here.
Full details for any ZIP code: ZIP code zone finder.
Which peony for your zone
Penn State Extension says peonies grow best in temperate to cold climates with consistent precipitation and, with the right soil and sun, do well in USDA zones 3 to 8. NC State Extension says they do best in zones 5 to 7 but can grow in 3 to 8, and languish in warm areas where their chilling requirement is difficult to meet. NDSU Extension says North Dakotans can grow peonies all the way to the Canadian border.
Penn State describes the types. Herbaceous peonies die to the ground in winter, with the buds for new growth underground; the common garden peony (Paeonia lactiflora) is the standard form. The tree peony (P. suffruticosa) is a woody shrub whose buds for next year sit on the stems. The Itoh, or intersectional, peony is a cross of the two: woody stems and large flowers like a tree peony, but it dies to the ground in winter. Woodland peonies suit shade gardeners. NDSU adds the fernleaf peony (P. tenuifolia), prized for its fine foliage and dark red flowers.
In the South the sources narrow the choice. UGA Extension says early-blooming varieties reportedly perform better in Georgia, that peonies are marginal in central Georgia and not generally recommended for south Georgia, and that the tree peony is not recommended except in northern Georgia. Mississippi State’s flower list names only ‘Festiva Maxima’ and other early bloomers. NC State says to plant low-chill types in warm areas. UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions says peonies are ill-suited to Florida’s summer heat and humidity, and suggests hibiscus or hydrangea instead.
Planting, and how deep to set the eyes
Penn State calls autumn the best time to plant peonies, since it coincides with the start of their dormancy, and NDSU says late August through early September is the best time for bare-root peonies in North Dakota. NDSU plants container peonies in spring or early summer. NC State says fall is also the best time to plant bare-root crowns from nurseries.
Penn State starts with a soil test: peonies prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline pH, need good fertility and excellent drainage, and do not tolerate wet feet. A bare-root peony should carry at least three to five buds, the white or pink “eyes” on top of the crown. Penn State says to cover those eyes with only one to two inches of soil, not to plant them upside down, and that if planted too deeply the flowers will not emerge in spring. University of Illinois Extension says to plant no deeper than 2 inches, and NDSU that no more than 2 inches of soil should cover the eyes.
In warm areas NC State goes shallower: do not plant the crowns more than one inch deep, and do not mulch in winter, because the mulch acts like an insulating blanket. Tree peonies go deeper, Penn State says: a grafted plant with the graft union 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface, a plant on its own roots with the stem junction two inches below.
NDSU and the University of Missouri Extension space peonies 3 to 4 feet apart. NDSU says to prune off all the flower buds in the year after planting so the roots develop; plants may flower in the second year and should flower prolifically by the third and fourth.
Sun, feeding and staking
NDSU says peonies flower best with at least six to eight hours of sun a day, and that shade from growing trees reduces the blooms over time. They do not compete well with turfgrass or tree roots, and NDSU says shelter from wind protects the flowers. NC State says they like some afternoon shade and plenty of water early in the season.
Missouri says to fertilize peonies sparingly, because too much, especially nitrogen, leads to poor flowering. NDSU works a couple of tablespoons of 10-10-10 into the soil around each established plant in early spring, kept 6 inches from the stems.
Penn State says tall herbaceous peonies with large, full flowers need staking, while single, Japanese and anemone forms on short stems need less, and healthy tree peonies usually need none. NDSU installs peony hoops in early May, before the plants get too large; tomato cages are an acceptable alternative.
Supplies
Supplies the sources mention
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- Soil pH test kitPenn State starts with a soil test: peonies prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline pH.
- Peony hoopsNDSU installs peony hoops in early May, before the plants get too large; Penn State says tall peonies with large, full flowers need staking.
- Bypass hand prunersNDSU removes peony tops completely in late September or October, because botrytis blight overwinters on the dead leaves and stems.
Dividing peonies
Peonies do not need dividing. NDSU says they are best left undisturbed and that divided plants may take 2 to 3 years to recover and bloom well; Missouri says they can often stay 20 or more years without a decline in flowering, and to divide only if growth is poor and they stop blooming. Illinois says they can last 50 plus years without division.
To make more plants, University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension calls September the best month, and NDSU early September. Penn State digs the plant, washes off the soil, removes rotted material, and cuts the crown into wedges, each with at least three to five buds and one to two large roots. Illinois says a division with fewer than three eyes will take longer to bloom, perhaps three years.
Fall cleanup and winter
NDSU removes the plant tops completely in late September or October, because botrytis blight overwinters on dead peony leaves and stems; Wisconsin also says removing the foliage in fall reduces disease. For newly planted peonies, NDSU applies 2 to 3 inches of leaf or straw mulch in the fall after the ground freezes and removes it in spring. In warm areas, NC State says not to mulch peonies in winter at all.
Full guide: When to Cut Back Perennials in Fall, and What to Leave
Cutting peonies for bouquets
NDSU cuts peonies as soon as the outer petals unfold, and says not to take large amounts of leaves with the stems, since the leaves feed next year’s growth and bloom. Put the blooms in water as soon as they are cut and snip the stems ½ inch shorter under water. NC State says to shake the flowers to dislodge insects before bringing them inside.
Why peonies do not bloom
- Planted too deep. NDSU, Wisconsin and Penn State all name it. NDSU says a deep plant may grow fine leaves and still not flower, that resetting it at the right depth can bring it into bloom, and that a plant left in place lifts itself a little each year.
- Too little sun. Wisconsin says peonies need at least 6 hours of sun a day, and that shade from growing trees can creep up on an old planting.
- Too much nitrogen. Wisconsin and Missouri both say it gives leaves at the expense of flowers.
- Recently moved. Wisconsin says transplanted peonies may take a few seasons to bloom well again; NC State says new plants often do not flower for a year or two.
- Disease and insects. NDSU names botrytis blight, viruses and thrips.
- Too warm a winter. NC State says peonies languish where their chilling requirement is difficult to meet.
Common problems
NDSU says botrytis blight overwinters on dead peony leaves, stems and roots, and its easiest control is sanitation: remove the tops in late September or October and do not compost them. Missouri says bud blight often appears in cool, wet springs, and that strict sanitation and good spacing reduce it. NDSU and NC State say powdery mildew has become common on peony leaves; NDSU says it is worse in shade and still air.
Ants on the buds are harmless. NDSU, Missouri and NC State all say they come for the sweet secretions on the buds and neither help nor hurt the flowers. NC State says deer shun peonies.
Common mistakes
- Burying the eyes. Penn State says one to two inches of soil over the eyes, no more; NC State says no more than one inch in warm areas.
- Planting in shade or among tree roots. Illinois says both lead to poor or no flowering.
- Feeding heavily with nitrogen. Missouri and Wisconsin say it gives leaves instead of flowers.
- Dividing a healthy clump that is blooming well. NDSU says divided plants may take 2 to 3 years to recover.
- Expecting a peony to flower in Florida or south Georgia. UF/IFAS says peonies are ill-suited there, and UGA does not generally recommend them for south Georgia.
We found no Texas, Louisiana or Alabama source for peonies that we could read; LSU AgCenter and Alabama Extension did not load from here. Southern advice on this page comes from Georgia, Mississippi, North Carolina and Florida, and all of it narrows the choice.
Questions
- How deep do you plant peony roots?
- Penn State says to cover the eyes with only one to two inches of soil, and Illinois and NDSU say no more than 2 inches. In warm areas NC State says no more than one inch. Tree peonies go deeper: Penn State sets a graft union 4 to 6 inches below the surface.
- Why is my peony not blooming?
- The sources name planting too deep, too little sun, too much nitrogen, a recent move, disease or thrips, and, in warm areas, too little winter chill. NDSU says a deep plant may grow fine leaves and still not flower.
- When is the best time to divide peonies?
- Wisconsin calls September the best month and NDSU early September. Penn State cuts the crown into wedges with three to five buds and one to two large roots each. NDSU says peonies do not need dividing at all.
- Do ants hurt peony buds?
- No. NDSU, Missouri and NC State all say the ants come for the sweet secretions on the buds and neither help nor hurt the flowers.
- Can peonies grow in the South?
- UGA says early-blooming varieties do better in Georgia, that peonies are marginal in central Georgia and not generally recommended for south Georgia. Mississippi State lists ‘Festiva Maxima’ and other early bloomers only. UF/IFAS says peonies are ill-suited to Florida.
Sources
Freeze dates on this page are NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, for every station the ZIP codes in each zone cite. Zones are the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, 2023. The type table is a judgement, as labelled above. Growing advice is quoted from the extension publications below, each written for its own area.
- Penn State Extension, The Beloved Peony , by Thomas Mrazik (Updated September 16, 2026). Written for: Pennsylvania (USDA zones 5b–8a).
- NDSU Extension, Peonies: A North Dakota Favorite (H2245) , by Esther McGinnis . Written for: North Dakota (USDA zones 3b–4b).
- University of Illinois Extension, Peony . Written for: Illinois (USDA zones 5a–7a).
- University of Illinois Extension, Dividing Peonies (October 7, 2015). Written for: Illinois (USDA zones 5a–7a).
- University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension, Why Iris & Peonies Fail to Bloom , by Bruce Spangenberg (June 16, 2025). Written for: Wisconsin (USDA zones 4a–6a).
- University of Missouri Extension, Billowing blooms crown peony the queen of spring (May 24, 2018). Written for: Missouri (USDA zones 5b–8a).
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, Paeonia (Herbaceous Types) . Written for: North Carolina (USDA zones 6b–9a).
- UGA Cooperative Extension, Flowering Perennials for Georgia Gardens (B944) , by Bodie V. Pennisi (Published with full review November 14, 2023). Written for: Georgia (USDA zones 7b–9a).
- Mississippi State University Extension, Annual and Perennial Flowers for Mississippi Gardens (P1826) , by Eddie M. L. Smith . Written for: Mississippi (USDA zones 7b–9a).
- UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions, Snowbird Swaps (Accessed October 2026). Written for: Florida (USDA zones 8b–11b).
Published October 24, 2026 · Updated October 30, 2026
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