Amaryllis care indoors, reblooming, and the zones where it lives outside

What you are buying

University of Minnesota Extension says the amaryllis sold as a houseplant is a hybrid of the genus Hippeastrum, native to Central and South America, and not the African genus Amaryllis the name comes from. NC State Extension says the same, and that there are over 100 species and hundreds of cultivars, single- and double-flowered and miniature, in red, pink, white, orange, salmon and bicolor.

Minnesota says the flowers range from 4 to 10 inches across on 1- to 2-foot leafless stalks, and that bulbs have been known to bloom for up to 75 years. NC State says the blooms last three to four weeks.

Choosing a bulb

Minnesota says to choose the largest bulbs available for the variety you want, because the larger the bulb, the more flowers it will have; UF/IFAS says the larger the bulb, the larger the flowers. Minnesota says a bulb should be firm and dry, with no mold, decay or injury, and that new green growth is normal on a bare or potted bulb if it is bright green and unspotted. A small offshoot at the base will grow into a new bulb and can be planted separately.

Planting the bulb

Minnesota grows amaryllis in a narrow pot, about 1 inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall as the bulb, with one or more holes in the bottom, because good drainage keeps the bulb and roots from rotting. It fills the pot half full of new, sterile potting soil high in organic matter such as peat moss, sets the bulb on it, and fills around it until one-third to one-half of the bulb is still showing. UF/IFAS keeps one half to two-thirds of the bulb above the soil to encourage early flowering, and NC State says to bury only half the bulb with the neck well above the soil line.

UF/IFAS says flower stalks can be top heavy, so to choose a pot heavy enough to balance them, or add a layer of gravel to the bottom.

After planting, Minnesota waters until the soil is thoroughly moist and lets it drain, then sets the pot in a sunny window. UF/IFAS waters once, places the pot somewhere cool and bright, and gives no more water until the bulb sprouts; UF/IFAS says bulbs should bloom within six or eight weeks of planting. Minnesota’s holiday guide waters lightly until growth appears, then keeps the soil evenly moist but not soggy.

Watering and feeding while it grows

Minnesota waters when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, lets the pot drain every time, and never lets it sit in water, which promotes bulb and root rot. It feeds each time it waters, at half strength, once new growth is visible, with a high-phosphorus houseplant fertilizer to promote blooming. UF/IFAS says fertilizer is not necessary while the bulb is first sprouting.

When the buds begin to open, Minnesota and UF/IFAS both move the plant out of direct sun to make the flowers last longer.

Getting it to bloom again next year

Minnesota says the secret is to keep the plant actively growing after it finishes blooming. Cut off the faded flowers so the plant does not set seed, which drains the bulb. Do not remove the flower stalk until it turns yellow; a green stalk keeps making food for next year. Then give it the sunniest spot you have indoors and keep watering and feeding it with an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer while it grows long leaves. Minnesota’s holiday guide adds: cut the stalk but leave the leaves, which recharge the bulb.

In summer the pot goes outside. Minnesota waits until all danger of frost is past, starts the pot in shade or indirect light, and gradually moves it into at least 6 hours of full sun a day; you can sink the whole pot into a garden bed. It keeps feeding monthly, and brings the plant in before the first fall frost, because amaryllis will not survive frost. The zone table on this page dates both moves for your zone. UF/IFAS also takes the plant outdoors once the flowers fade and feeds it to grow new leaves.

Minnesota says amaryllis do not need a rest period and will bloom again if they keep growing, but a rest lets you time the flowers. After bringing the pot in, it stores it in a cool, dry, dark place such as a basement or closet, lets the leaves turn brown before cutting them off, and gives no water for 8 to 12 weeks, checking now and then for mold. When new growth appears, or after 12 weeks, it brings the pot into a sunny window and starts watering and feeding again. Minnesota says flowers usually follow in about 4 to 6 weeks. NC State gives a rest of 8 to 10 weeks in a cool, semi-dark place.

If no flower stalk comes, Minnesota says the bulb probably did not store enough food in the months after its last bloom.

Minnesota and UF/IFAS both say amaryllis bloom best a little pot-bound. Minnesota repots only every 3 or 4 years, after a rest period; UF/IFAS leaves a bulb in its pot for two or more years.

Amaryllis outdoors, in the ground

NC State’s plant toolbox lists amaryllis for USDA zones 7 to 10, and says they can survive the winter outdoors in zones 7 and 8 if properly mulched; colder than zone 7, they are houseplants. NC State says they grow in full sun or part shade in soil high in organic matter, moist but well drained, and that outdoors it mulches them 2 or 3 inches deep for their dormant period.

In Florida, UF/IFAS says amaryllis can grow outdoors year-round and be planted between September and January, in partial sun and well-drained soil; in heavy shade they flower poorly. Planted out in Florida they typically bloom in spring, before the leaves, and UF/IFAS says frost may kill the leaves in northern counties.

Pests and problems

Minnesota says most insect and disease trouble is prevented by inspecting bulbs before you buy and caring for them properly. It names the narcissus bulb fly, which may lay eggs in bulbs left outdoors for the summer, and whose maggots rot the bulb from inside; Minnesota says to destroy infested bulbs, because insecticides are generally ineffective. Constantly wet soil attracts fungus gnats. Red blotch, a fungus, causes red spots and cankers on the stalks and leaves but is not usually fatal.

NC State and Penn State say the bulb is the most toxic part, and UF/IFAS that amaryllis can cause poisoning if eaten. Our page on holiday plants and pets has what each says about cats and dogs.

Common mistakes

• A pot with no drainage hole. Minnesota says good drainage is what prevents bulb and root rot.
• Burying the whole bulb. Minnesota leaves a third to a half showing; UF/IFAS half to two-thirds.
• Cutting off the leaves after it blooms. Minnesota says the leaves store the food for next year’s flowers.
• Leaving the pot out past the first frost. Minnesota says amaryllis will not survive frost.
• Repotting every year. Minnesota says they bloom best pot-bound and need repotting only every 3 or 4 years.

We found no Texas or Louisiana source for amaryllis that we could read; Texas A&M’s horticulture pages and LSU AgCenter did not load from here. Southern advice on this page comes from UF/IFAS and NC State.

Questions

How do you get an amaryllis to bloom again?

Keep it growing after it blooms, Minnesota says: cut off the faded flowers, leave the stalk until it yellows, give it sun, water and fertilizer, and put it outside for the summer. To time the next bloom, rest it cool, dry and dark for 8 to 12 weeks, then bring it back to a sunny window.

How deep do you plant an amaryllis bulb?

Minnesota leaves one-third to one-half of the bulb above the soil, UF/IFAS half to two-thirds, and NC State buries only half with the neck well above the soil line.

Can amaryllis be planted outside?

NC State rates them for zones 7 to 10 and says they can survive the winter outdoors in zones 7 and 8 if mulched. UF/IFAS plants them in Florida between September and January. Colder than zone 7, they are houseplants that can summer outdoors in a pot.

How long does an amaryllis take to bloom?

UF/IFAS says six to eight weeks from planting. From a rested bulb, Minnesota says flowers usually develop in about 4 to 6 weeks.

Should I cut the leaves off my amaryllis?

Not while they are green. Minnesota says the leaves make the food stored in the bulb for next year, and to cut them only after they turn brown during a rest.

Sources

Freeze dates on this page are NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, for every station the ZIP codes in each zone cite. Zones are the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, 2023. Growing advice is quoted from the extension publications below, each written for its own area.

• University of Minnesota Extension, Amaryllis , by Julie Weisenhorn and Mary Meyer (Reviewed 2026). Written for: Minnesota (USDA zones 3a–5a).
• University of Minnesota Extension, Your holiday plant survival guide , by Robin Trott, Douglas County (November 24, 2025). Written for: Minnesota (USDA zones 3a–5a).
• UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions, Amaryllis (Accessed October 2026). Written for: Florida (USDA zones 8b–11b).
• NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, Hippeastrum (amaryllis) . Written for: North Carolina (USDA zones 6b–9a).
• Penn State Extension, Holiday Plants and Pets , by Lois Miklas (Updated November 10, 2025). Written for: Pennsylvania (USDA zones 5b–8a).

How we write our guides

Published October 25, 2026