Plants · Herbs
Lavender planting zones
Lavender (Lavandula) is a perennial. By the type table below, at least one type lives through winter in the ground in 5a–10b; colder than that, it is a pot plant or a one-season crop. Below the types are the dates that decide when it goes out and when it comes in: each zone’s median last spring freeze and first fall freeze, from NOAA records.
Published October 23, 2026 · Cite this page
The types
Which lavender to grow
| Type | Hardy in the ground | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| English lavender Lavandula angustifolia (e.g. ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’) | 5a to 9a, then too hot or humid | The hardiest type; Colorado State says it often blooms twice in a season. Clemson calls it the least adapted to Southern heat. |
| Lavandin Lavandula × intermedia (e.g. ‘Provence’, ‘Grosso’, ‘Phenomenal’) | 5b to 9b, then too hot or humid | Larger plants that bloom once, later in summer (Colorado State). Clemson lists lavandins among the best for a hot climate. |
| Spanish lavender Lavandula stoechas | 8a to 10b, then too hot or humid | Not cold hardy in Colorado (Colorado State); an excellent lavender for hot Southern climates (Clemson). |
| French lavender Lavandula dentata | 8b to 10b, then too hot or humid | Clemson lists it among the best lavenders for a hot climate, given full sun and excellent drainage. |
Zone ranges are a judgement: horticultural convention set beside what the sources below say, not a measurement. They agree with our What survives my winter tool. In the next table the freeze dates are measured, and the count of hardy types comes from these judged ranges.
Zone by zone
Where lavender lives through winter, and when the freezes fall
Each date is the median across every NOAA station the zone’s ZIP codes cite, 1991–2020 normals. The middle half of those stations falls within the range shown beside it.
| Zone | Types hardy in the ground | Last spring freeze | First fall freeze |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3a | 0 of 4 | only 10 stations with comparable freeze dates — too few to publish a date | |
| 3b | 0 of 4 | May 18 · middle half May 15 – May 25 | September 23 · middle half September 17 – September 26 |
| 4a | 0 of 4 | May 15 · middle half May 10 – May 21 | September 27 · middle half September 22 – September 30 |
| 4b | 0 of 4 | May 11 · middle half May 5 – May 23 | September 30 · middle half September 23 – October 3 |
| 5a | 1 of 4 | May 9 · middle half May 1 – May 20 | October 2 · middle half September 26 – October 7 |
| 5b | 2 of 4 | May 4 · middle half April 27 – May 15 | October 8 · middle half October 1 – October 14 |
| 6a | 2 of 4 | May 1 · middle half April 24 – May 9 | October 14 · middle half October 5 – October 20 |
| 6b | 2 of 4 | April 25 · middle half April 17 – May 3 | October 20 · middle half October 11 – October 24 |
| 7a | 2 of 4 | April 19 · middle half April 11 – April 27 | October 23 · middle half October 17 – October 28 |
| 7b | 2 of 4 | April 8 · middle half April 3 – April 16 | October 30 · middle half October 25 – November 3 |
| 8a | 3 of 4 | March 30 · middle half March 25 – April 5 | November 5 · middle half November 1 – November 10 |
| 8b | 4 of 4 | March 20 · middle half March 13 – March 29 | November 12 · middle half November 7 – November 18 |
| 9a | 4 of 4 | March 5 · middle half February 24 – March 15 | November 24 · middle half November 18 – December 2 |
| 9b | 3 of 4 | February 12 · middle half January 30 – February 25 | December 8 · middle half December 1 – December 17 |
| 10a | 2 of 4 | 107 of 190 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 10b | 2 of 4 | 70 of 79 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 11a | 0 of 4 | 34 of 34 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
| 11b | 0 of 4 | 12 of 12 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from | |
“Types hardy in the ground” is a judgement, from the type table above. The freeze dates are measured.
A zone does not tell you your own dates. Inside a single zone the median last spring freeze still varies by 34 days from station to station, so the box below gives the dates of the NOAA station nearest your ZIP code.
Your ZIP code
Your ZIP, your answer
Enter your ZIP code to see your USDA zone, how many of the 4 types on this page live through that zone’s winter and when its freezes fall, read from the table on this page, and the freeze dates of the NOAA station nearest you.
Your answer appears here.
Full details for any ZIP code: ZIP code zone finder.
Which lavender for your zone
Colorado State University Extension says English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is hardy to zone 5 and often blooms twice in one season. Lavandins, hybrids of English lavender and L. latifolia, are generally larger plants that bloom only once, later in the summer. Colorado State adds that French and Spanish lavenders are not cold hardy in Colorado but can be grown there as annuals in containers and beds.
Utah State University Extension rates the English lavender cultivar ‘Lady’ hardy in zones 5 to 8 and says it will survive zone 4 winters if mulched or grown in a south-facing spot. University of Illinois Extension calls the English and lavandin groups the preferred choices for the Midwest.
Clemson’s Home & Garden Information Center calls English lavender the best known and the least adapted to Southern heat, and names the lavandins (‘Dutch’, ‘Provence’, ‘Grosso’), Spanish lavender, French lavender (L. dentata) and sweet lavender as some of the best for a hot climate, given full sun and excellent drainage. For Florida, UF/IFAS Extension Manatee County suggests Spanish or French lavender, which handle humidity better.
Planting
Utah State says to transplant lavender after the last spring frost (the table above gives your zone’s median date), and that fall planting works if there are two months of good weather for plants to establish before winter. It spaces plants 18 to 24 inches apart and says lavender takes three years to reach full size.
Colorado State says lavender can be planted from spring through fall, and cites New Mexico State University research finding that fall-planted lavender survives better, establishes more quickly and flowers more the next season. Fall plants should be in 4-inch or larger pots with an established root system.
Colorado State says to make sure nursery stock was propagated from cuttings, because English lavenders do not always come true from seed, and Utah State says germination is slow and most lavender is started from cuttings.
Sun, soil and drainage
Illinois says lavender demands two things, full sun and extremely well-drained soil, and that dampness more than cold is what kills lavender plants: wet soil, especially over winter, and high humidity with poor air circulation in summer. It suggests raised beds where drainage is a problem, space between plants, and a mulch of rock or pea gravel to keep the crown dry.
Colorado State wants full sun and an alkaline soil with very little organic matter, and amends heavy soil with small bark mulch tilled in. It warns that sand or gravel worked into clay soil may create an even greater drainage problem. Clemson, writing for South Carolina’s heavy soils and humidity, recommends raised beds with a gravel mulch.
In the Florida Panhandle, UF/IFAS Northwest District says lavender thrives in well-drained, low organic matter soil and is very sensitive to pH, which should be kept above 6; many Panhandle soils are pH 5.5 or below. A little afternoon shade helps in the hottest summer weather. UF/IFAS Manatee County says lavender often prefers a constrained root zone, such as a shallow terra cotta pot or gravel added to the soil.
Watering, feeding and pruning
Utah State says lavender is very drought tolerant once established but produces more blooms with regular watering, and Illinois says new plantings benefit from regular watering in the first year. Utah State says lavender has low nutritional needs: over-fertilized plants produce more foliage and fewer flowers, and too much fertilizer makes plants more vulnerable to disease and cold injury.
The sources disagree on when to prune. Colorado State says lavender flowers on new growth and should be pruned every year once established, when green leaves start to emerge from the base in spring, removing about a third of the top so the plant does not split open and turn woody. Utah State says to prune every year after flowering, shearing plants back to half their size. Illinois says not to cut plants back in the fall and to wait until new growth appears in spring.
Harvesting for the kitchen
Illinois says to cut stems just as the flowers start to open, when the spikes have the strongest scent, and that lavender can be used in beverages and with pork, fish and chicken, sparingly, because a little goes a long way. Colorado State harvests in the morning, when about half the flower buds have opened.
Utah State says to harvest in the morning after the dew has gone but before the heat sets in, and in the first year to clip branches to keep them from flowering, which encourages side shoots.
Getting lavender through winter
In cold areas, Illinois says lavender benefits from a winter mulch of evergreen boughs or straw placed over the planting after the plants are fully dormant and the ground first freezes. Colorado State says the root zone should not be allowed to dry out during winter, that watering in winter increases the survival of fall plantings, and that fabric row covers can protect new plants from wind and heavy snow.
UF/IFAS Pinellas County says gray-green herbs such as lavender do best in Florida’s cooler months and tend to get moldy in humid summers.
Common problems
Colorado State and Utah State both say lavender has few pest or disease problems but is susceptible to soil diseases such as Phytophthora root rot: do not overwater or let water stand around plants. Heavy grasshopper infestations can reduce yields, and deer (and in some areas elk, Colorado State says) may browse or trample plants.
Both also say lavender is not competitive with weeds. Utah State suggests landscape fabric during establishment and light mulches such as bark or gravel.
Common mistakes
- Planting in soil that stays wet. Illinois says dampness, more than cold, is what kills lavender.
- Cutting plants back in fall. Illinois says to wait for new growth in spring.
- Feeding heavily. Utah State says over-fertilized lavender makes more foliage, fewer flowers, and is more prone to disease and cold injury.
- Planting English lavender for a humid Southern summer. Clemson calls it the least adapted to Southern heat.
- Growing a named cultivar from seed. Colorado State says English lavenders do not always come true from seed.
We found no Texas home-garden source for lavender. Texas A&M’s survey of Texas herb crops says lavender was once grown commercially in the Hill Country but was limited by adaptation problems; it gives no growing advice.
Questions
- What zone does lavender grow in?
- Colorado State says English lavender is hardy to zone 5, and Utah State says it will survive zone 4 winters if mulched or grown in a south-facing spot. Colorado State says French and Spanish lavenders are not cold hardy there, while Clemson recommends Spanish lavender and the lavandins for hot Southern climates. The type table on this page gives each type’s range, as a judgement.
- Why did my lavender die over winter?
- Illinois says dampness more than cold is responsible for killing lavender: soil that stays wet, especially over winter. Colorado State and Utah State say lavender is susceptible to Phytophthora root rot and should not be overwatered or left standing in water.
- When should I prune lavender?
- The sources differ. Colorado State prunes in spring, when green leaves start to emerge from the base, removing about a third of the top. Utah State prunes after flowering, shearing plants back to half their size. Illinois says not to cut back in the fall.
- Which lavender grows best in Florida?
- UF/IFAS Manatee County suggests Spanish or French lavender, which handle humidity better, in a constrained root zone such as a shallow terra cotta pot or gravel added to the soil. UF/IFAS Northwest District says to keep the soil pH above 6, and UF/IFAS Pinellas County says lavender does best in Florida’s cooler months.
- Can I grow lavender from seed?
- Utah State says seed germinates slowly and most lavender is started from cuttings. Colorado State says English lavenders do not always come true from seed, so buy plants propagated from cuttings.
Sources
Freeze dates on this page are NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, for every station the ZIP codes in each zone cite. Zones are the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, 2023. The type table is a judgement, as labelled above. Growing advice is quoted from the extension publications below, each written for its own area.
- Colorado State University Extension, Growing Lavender in Colorado (Fact Sheet 7.245) , by K.A. Kimbrough and C.E. Swift . Written for: Colorado (USDA zones 4a–7a).
- Utah State University Extension, How to Grow English Lavender in Your Garden , by Keenen Crummitt and Dan Drost (Published May 2020). Written for: Utah (USDA zones 4a, 5a, 5b, 6a, 6b, 7a, 7b, 8a, 8b).
- University of Illinois Extension, Herb Gardening: Lavender . Written for: Illinois (USDA zones 5a–7a).
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home & Garden Information Center, Herbs (HGIC 1311) , by Millie Davenport (Updated November 25, 2019). Written for: South Carolina (USDA zones 8a–9b).
- UF/IFAS Extension Manatee County, The Nose Knows: Aromatic Gardens in Florida (October 27, 2023; accessed October 2026). Written for: Florida (USDA zones 8b–11b).
- UF/IFAS Extension Northwest District, Summer herbs (2019; accessed October 2026). Written for: Northwest Florida (the Panhandle).
- UF/IFAS Extension Pinellas County, Try Growing Herbs (February 13, 2009; accessed October 2026). Written for: Pinellas County, Florida (USDA zones 10a–10b).
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, Aggie Horticulture, The Crops of Texas: Herbs and Spices (commercial production) . Written for: Texas commercial growers (USDA zones 6b–10b).
Published October 23, 2026
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