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Chives planting zones

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are perennials. By the type table below, at least one type lives through winter in the ground in 3a–9b, which is nearly every US garden. Below the types are the dates that decide when it goes out and when it comes in: each zone’s median last spring freeze and first fall freeze, from NOAA records.

Published October 25, 2026 · Cite this page

The types

Which chives to grow

Type Hardy in the ground Notes
Common chives Allium schoenoprasum 3a to 9b, then too hot or humid Wisconsin says hardy to zone 4a; NC State rates 4a to 8b. Mississippi State says chives prefer partial shade in hot summers.
Garlic chives Allium tuberosum 3a to 9b, then too hot or humid Flat leaves, white flowers in late summer (Illinois, Minnesota). NC State rates it 3a to 9b; Mississippi State says it self-seeds prolifically.
‘Profusion’ chives Allium schoenoprasum ‘Sterile’ 3a to 9b, then too hot or humid Sterile flowers that set no seed (Illinois) and bloom over a longer period than the species (Wisconsin).

Zone ranges are a judgement: horticultural convention set beside what the sources below say, not a measurement. They agree with our What survives my winter tool. In the next table the freeze dates are measured, and the count of hardy types comes from these judged ranges.

Zone by zone

Where chives live through winter, and when the freezes fall

Each date is the median across every NOAA station the zone’s ZIP codes cite, 1991–2020 normals. The middle half of those stations falls within the range shown beside it.

Zone Types hardy in the ground Last spring freeze First fall freeze
3a 3 of 3 only 10 stations with comparable freeze dates — too few to publish a date
3b 3 of 3 May 18 · middle half May 15 – May 25 September 23 · middle half September 17 – September 26
4a 3 of 3 May 15 · middle half May 10 – May 21 September 27 · middle half September 22 – September 30
4b 3 of 3 May 11 · middle half May 5 – May 23 September 30 · middle half September 23 – October 3
5a 3 of 3 May 9 · middle half May 1 – May 20 October 2 · middle half September 26 – October 7
5b 3 of 3 May 4 · middle half April 27 – May 15 October 8 · middle half October 1 – October 14
6a 3 of 3 May 1 · middle half April 24 – May 9 October 14 · middle half October 5 – October 20
6b 3 of 3 April 25 · middle half April 17 – May 3 October 20 · middle half October 11 – October 24
7a 3 of 3 April 19 · middle half April 11 – April 27 October 23 · middle half October 17 – October 28
7b 3 of 3 April 8 · middle half April 3 – April 16 October 30 · middle half October 25 – November 3
8a 3 of 3 March 30 · middle half March 25 – April 5 November 5 · middle half November 1 – November 10
8b 3 of 3 March 20 · middle half March 13 – March 29 November 12 · middle half November 7 – November 18
9a 3 of 3 March 5 · middle half February 24 – March 15 November 24 · middle half November 18 – December 2
9b 3 of 3 February 12 · middle half January 30 – February 25 December 8 · middle half December 1 – December 17
10a 0 of 3 107 of 190 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from
10b 0 of 3 70 of 79 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from
11a 0 of 3 34 of 34 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from
11b 0 of 3 12 of 12 stations here record no ordinary freeze, so there is no freeze date to count from

“Types hardy in the ground” is a judgement, from the type table above. The freeze dates are measured.

A zone does not tell you your own dates. Inside a single zone the median last spring freeze still varies by 34 days from station to station, so the box below gives the dates of the NOAA station nearest your ZIP code.

Your ZIP code

Your ZIP, your answer

Enter your ZIP code to see your USDA zone, how many of the 3 types on this page live through that zone’s winter and when its freezes fall, read from the table on this page, and the freeze dates of the NOAA station nearest you.

Works for all 40,502 US ZIP codes. Freeze dates need a NOAA station within 100 km; where there is none, the page says so rather than estimating one. Your ZIP code stays in your browser: the page downloads the file of ZIP codes that share its first three digits and looks yours up there. It is not stored or tracked.

Your answer appears here.

Full details for any ZIP code: ZIP code zone finder.

Which chives

University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension rates chives (Allium schoenoprasum) hardy to zone 4a, and says garlic chives (A. tuberosum) have brighter green, flatter leaves, white flowers in fall, larger bulbs and a more pronounced garlic flavor, and can be used like regular chives. NC State’s Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox rates chives 4a to 8b and garlic chives 3a to 9b.

University of Illinois Extension names ‘Grolau’, developed for indoor growing, ‘Nelly’, ‘Staro’ with extra thick leaves, and ‘Profusion’, whose flowers are sterile and set no seed. Wisconsin names ‘Dolores’ and ‘Polyvert’ as culinary types and ‘Pink Giant’, with leaves about twice the size of the species.

In the South, Mississippi State’s Vegetable Gardener’s Guide calls chives a short-lived perennial that prefers partial shade in hot summers, and says garlic chives thrive in Mississippi and self-seed prolifically. Clemson’s Home & Garden Information Center grows chives from seed or transplants in full sun.

Planting

University of Minnesota Extension says the easiest and most successful start is planting rooted clumps in spring after frost danger has passed, 6 to 12 inches apart; chives can also be started from seed. Illinois says chives are most often propagated by dividing clumps in early spring, and that seed is slow, taking 4 to 6 weeks to make transplants, with variation in leaf size among seedlings.

The sources differ on timing seed. Wisconsin starts seed indoors a few weeks before the average date of last frost, to plant out after the danger of frost, or direct-seeds once the soil is warm; NC State starts seed indoors eight to ten weeks before the last frost date or sows directly after it. Utah State University Extension sows as early as possible in spring, a quarter inch deep, thinned to 4 to 6 inches.

For the South, Mississippi State’s planting tables set out chives between January 15 and May 1 in spring, depending on the part of the state, and again between September 1 and November 10 in fall, to overwinter for a spring harvest. UGA’s Herbs in Southern Gardens plants them in spring or fall.

Sun, soil, water and feeding

Wisconsin grows chives in full sun and organic-rich, well-drained soil, though they tolerate light shade (with fewer flowers) and most soils. They are shallow-rooted, so cultivate carefully or mulch, and drought tolerant once established but best with consistent moisture. Minnesota gives them six to eight hours of direct light and a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

The sources differ on feeding. Minnesota says over-fertilizing can be harmful and that soil rich in organic matter should be enough, with a very light application in spring if continual harvest weakens the plant; Wisconsin says chives have low nutrient needs. UGA says chives need regular fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer, and Illinois says plants that are cut often benefit from extra fertilizer.

Dividing the clumps

All the sources divide chives, but on different schedules and at different sizes. Illinois divides every 2 to 3 years into clumps of about 4 to 6 bulbs; Wisconsin every 2 to 3 years, with at least 5 bulblets per division; Minnesota every three to four years, in spring; UGA into divisions of 10 or so little bulbs; Mississippi State’s Easy-to-Grow Herbs every 3 years.

Utah State divides in spring and lets the plants re-establish for several weeks before harvesting again.

Harvesting for the kitchen

Wisconsin harvests once the leaves are about 6 inches long, cutting some of the leaves in a clump about 2 inches from the base so the harvest continues; if the whole clump is cut, it takes several weeks to regrow. It cuts plants back to about 3 inches after flowering to force new, tender leaves, and uses only firm green leaves. Illinois harvests through the season to keep the leaves from turning tough, cutting about an inch above the soil.

Utah State says chives can be harvested 60 days after seeding or 30 days after transplanting, three or four times the first year and monthly after that. Minnesota cuts flower stalks off at the soil line once they finish blooming, so the plant does not set seed and stays productive.

The sources disagree about the flowers. Wisconsin and Minnesota say they are edible; Utah State calls the flowers and stalks unpalatable and discards them. Wisconsin keeps cut chives in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Winter, and chives indoors

Wisconsin says that in cold climates the leaves are killed over winter, and old plant remains are removed in late winter before growth resumes; in mild climates chives may stay evergreen.

For a winter windowsill, Illinois says the best potted chives come from clumps dug from the garden after a freeze, in December or January; plants potted in fall do not perform as well and tend to get leggy. Minnesota keeps them in a bright, sunny spot, expects little growth while winter light is poor, and does not fertilize them in winter.

Common problems

Wisconsin says chives have no significant insect or disease problems and are not favored by deer or rabbits. Utah State lists thrips, root maggots, pink root and downy mildew, and NC State says root rot can occur in poorly drained soil. Illinois warns that chives can self-sow and take over a garden unless the flowers are removed before they fade.

NC State’s plant toolbox lists chives as a problem for cats, dogs and horses. NC State lists garlic chives as having low-severity poisonous characteristics for people, with nausea, vomiting and diarrhea as possible symptoms, while calling the leaves, bulbs and flowers edible.

Common mistakes

We found no Florida or Texas source on chives beyond spacing: Texas A&M’s Growing Herbs in Texas gives spacing and sun only, and UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions has no chives page we could open.

Questions

What zone do chives grow in?
Wisconsin rates chives hardy to zone 4a and NC State rates them 4a to 8b; NC State rates garlic chives 3a to 9b. Mississippi State grows chives through the winter there. The type table on this page gives each range, as a judgement.
When should I divide chives?
In spring, by most of the sources. Illinois divides every 2 to 3 years into clumps of about 4 to 6 bulbs, Wisconsin every 2 to 3 years with at least 5 bulblets per division, and Minnesota every three to four years.
How do I harvest chives so they keep growing?
Wisconsin cuts some of the leaves in a clump about 2 inches from the base and leaves the rest, because a whole clump cut back takes several weeks to regrow. Illinois cuts about an inch above the soil and harvests through the season to keep the leaves tender.
Can I grow chives indoors in winter?
Yes. Minnesota says chives grow easily indoors in a bright, sunny spot, though they grow little while winter light is poor. Illinois says clumps dug from the garden after a freeze, in December or January, make better potted plants than clumps potted in fall.
What is the difference between chives and garlic chives?
Wisconsin says garlic chives have brighter green, flatter leaves, white flowers in fall, larger bulbs and a more pronounced garlic flavor, and can be used like regular chives. Mississippi State says garlic chives self-seed prolifically.

Sources

Freeze dates on this page are NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, for every station the ZIP codes in each zone cite. Zones are the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, 2023. The type table is a judgement, as labelled above. Growing advice is quoted from the extension publications below, each written for its own area.

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Published October 25, 2026

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